June 23, 1933

Dear Mother and Dad,-

Well is this the tropics or isn't it? The other night when we went to the roof garden dance on Shameen, the rain took a notion to show us what it could do when it really got worked up. It started fifteen minutes before we left the party and in ten minutes more the streets were actually five inches deep in water. We waited on the steps of the Consulate thinking it would let up, but no, it just came harder. So we braved the storm and walked to the bridge in water up to our ankles. I borrowed a raincoat from Mrs. Ballantine, the Consul's Wife, but when we got home none of us had a single dry stitch on. The lights were off in our house and the Amah met us with a candle and we pealed off right there. Hoe the rain ever got through the coat is more than I can see, but it was coming down with so much force that I think it splashed up under me. The loudest thunder I have ever heard accompanied the rain, also lightning. It would crack like a huge explosion and actually hurt your ears. Wot a night. Every time we go to a party on Shameen it rains. We are going to take a canoe next time. Then to cap the climax we ran out of gas half way home. China is a heck of a place to run out of gas. Ed Deeds hailed a rickshaw and went looking for another car, while Stu and I and the Terrills sat in our fresh air taxi and waited. Presently he came along. By that time the streets were rivers. Lots of Chinese living in little hovels were washed out of bed. We got into the car Ed found and went home leaving the Chevy where it was. It's a funny thing, but the Chinese take anything they can find usually, but none of them can drive a car, so it was found intact the next morning.

Stu and I had our dinner last night and although we were all pretty tired from the affects of the rainstorm, it was a good one. The lobster was delicious and everything was very nice. The boy looked right smart in a new coat we bought for him and all was elegant.

June 27th-

The other night we had a very interesting although embarrassing experience. There is a Chinese at the field who is very nice and lives very close to us. He asked Stu and me to call one night so last night we did. He has a lovely home, filled with real treasures consisting of all kinds of blackwood and beautiful vases etc. Both he and his wife come from an old Chinese family and so they have many things that are very old and lovely. He took us through his house and showed us all the things, and told us about them. He and his wife were charming. When it was time for us to go he wrapped up no less than four vases which are over four hundred years old and wanted us to take them as a gift. We were very much embarrassed because naturally we did not feel like moving out with all his furniture. We protested in vain and he sent a coolie along to carry them home for us. We felt like a couple of chumps. The next day Stu asked our doctor- who is Chinese- what to do in a case like that. He said it was an old Chinese custom. That if the liked you they made you a gift when you called, and that we were not to worry about it because they did not give anything they did not want to. His wife is coming to see me Monday. She does not speak a word of English and I do not speak Chinese so we will have a swell time. I am going to try to teach her English and she is going to teach me Chinese. She probably will only come once, because they do not go out very often.

Yesterday I went down to the river (we live about seven blocks from it) to see the dragon festival. That is why the drums have been beating. The festival consists of a long boat about forty yards long and about a foot and a half wide. Sitting kneew[sic] against back are a whole lot of men with sawed off paddles rowing the boat. They make it scoot through the water. At the prwo{sic] of the boat is a man with a dragon's head on waving it around. In the center is a platform with a big drum on it. Two men beat the drum. Other boats etc. are all decorated with flags etc., and everyone is shooting off firecrackers. The Chinese are very closed mouthed about their festivals because they think we would laugh at them. They don't know that we have Halloween, and Fourth of July and banker's conventions that are just as funny. However the most information that we could get was that once upon a time a very important and well liked man fell into the river or was pushed in or something. Anyway the populace feeling his loss keenly instigated a sort of ceremony asking the Gods to bring him back. They went up and down the river in boats beating drums and the Gods convinced of their sincerity yielded the man back up to them. So ever since they celebrate and remember the kindness of the Gods twice a year. We had to piece this together and it probably is not accurate. The man who told the snatches[sic] to Stu finished up by saying 'very stupid Chinese superstition'. He was afraid Stu would be amused. Naturally Stu was not amused but interested.

Chinese funerals here last months. Some of the final processions along the street are really beautiful. I saw one that was at least two miles long. There was a band at first, then dozens of things that looked like Chinese lanterns only enormous ones on sticks. Then, dozens of chairs (carrying kind) filled with paper flowers and decorations of all kinds. Then, chair after chair with paper mache effigies of all the man's possessions- lamps to see by, bridges so that he may have one if he has to cross any water, boats, and automobiles, and everything that he might need or want. The paper effigies are burned so he can have them in his travel to a new land. Then came some children on ponies. They were all dressed in elaborate Chinese garb, glistening with embroidery and sequins and fur and feathers. On their heads were great headdresses of glittering stones and all kinds of glass ornaments. They stood on the ponies circus fashion and waved their feather fans. Then came all kinds of other effigies that I do not know the symbol of. It was really a very touching sight.

I never go down town without seeing a funeral or a parade or a wedding. Some are better than others depending on prestige.

July 3rd- In the intermission, Ed Deeds has been killed at the field. We sent a telegram home so that you and Stu's folks might not even have a moments worry due to mixed up names of something of that kind. I have jotted down some of the particulars for Stu's folks and they will tell you all that I can write about it. It is a very sad thing and Stu and I and the Terrills have been in a whirl ever since. I will not repeat the details of the accident here because I want to get this off to explain the cable. In three more days everything will be settled, and I will write again.

Lots of love to you all,

Jeannette.