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February 28 1933 On Board SS General Lee
We arrive in Shanghai tomorrow noon. Seems that the trip is almost
over. Believe me it is about time. I sent my last letter from Yokohama,
by U. S. postage because the President Jefferson was sailing for
Frisco the day we arrived. I had to use U. S. stamps and send the
letter over to the boat to make the connection. We sailed from Yokohama
at two P.M. The trip to Kobe is beautiful. The ship winds through
the islands and the inland sea. You can't imagine the picturesque
ness of the island--they are lovely. I described them quite lyrically
in a letter to Jeannette which she will be glad to show you.
We were fortunate in Yokohama. We arrived there late
at night and anchored in quarantine. Six-thirty A.M. we were mustered
for medical and immigration inspection. The sun was just rising
and there behind the city rose Fujiyama white with snow. It was
a beautiful sight. Of course you have seen hundreds of pictures
of Fuji and so have I, but in the flesh it is quite different. If
you can imagine this, the mountain gives an impression of slenderness
and grace. Not a broad based triangular gently shaped peak. Rather
it rises abruptly with steep slopes almost like a tower, and with
it all perfect symmetry. Not a bump or gash on or in its smooth
sides. It seems that Fuji is modest and usually hides her face in
clouds. We were lucky to see her as we did. I had no passport so
could not get off the boat, but as much as I could see the city
seemed very modern and like any American port. Shipping is heavy
and there were hundreds of boats in the harbor. Rickshaws and native
dressed women were certainly a foreign touch though."
We sailed from Yokohama for Kobe at 2 P.M. Just
outside the harbor was literally hundreds of junks, fishing boats.
With their queerly shaped hulls and ponderous square sails they
presented quite a picture to my foreign eyes. And the jellyfish--the
waters were filled with them. Look for them when you go through.
Our course to Kobe takes us between the islands and through the
inland sea. I spent most of the afternoon on deck. Japan is beautiful.
The islands are rugged with hardly a level spot of ground. The hills
and mountains are covered with trees that soften their angles. The
sea is a deep sparkling blue. The coast is submerged with trees
and greenery growing at the very waters edge. Once in a while a
tiny cove will show a thin crescent of sand. The islands look as
though they had sprung fully matured from beneath the indigo sea.
The coastlines are a maze of indentations and tiny coves with little
fishing villages in each nook. Some of the houses are on the tiny
level spots but many hang precariously upon the sides of the mountains,
which spring from the waters edge. I am told that generations live
and die in these villages without ever seeing another village.
We arrived at Kobe at night and of course stayed on the boat as
usual. The next day, yesterday, we continued to thread our way through
the islands. The fishing boats, junks, simply fill the sea and make
navigation precarious. Vessels often ram and sink them. They say
that it is often deliberate on the junkman's part. Of course the
company has to buy them a new junk.
Last night we came to the last
narrow channel between us and the yellow sea. It was six o'clock
and the channel was filled with junks! We were proceeding with whistle
screaming when sure enough the junks closed in, one right in our
way. To miss it we headed for the shore-- engines reversed full
speed. We missed the junk by 10 feet but it seemed that nothing
could keep us from going aground. The Captain had the anchor dropped,
but we dragged it. Finally it caught and we stopped within 2O feet
of the shore. Too close for comfort.
Today we are on the open sea
and making knots on a sea as smooth at glass. I have been on this
boat so long that I wont remember proper land conduct. I am very
anxious to arrive and see what it is all about. Well in four more
days I will be at my journeys end. My letters are sadly lacking
in information but I am as much in the dark as ever. I think of
you all and wonder what you are doing! It seems ages since I left
though it really hasn't been long. It seems that hundreds of things
must have happened and I want to know what they are.
I expect to
be pretty busy for a while after we arrive, but you can be sure
I will give you all the information I can immediately. Until I have
some startling information--
All my love, Stu.
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