March 4, 1933
On Board SS General Lee

Arrive in Hong Kong day after tomorrow. At last the long journey ends.

We docked in Shanghai one P.M. Wednesday and sailed one P.M. Thursday. We had 24 hours in Shanghai and we filled them to capacity. It would take weeks to see Shanghai and I hope to have the opportunity some day. It is surely worth the time. Ed Howard met us at the boat. He had a car so we started for his office. All the cars here are right hand drives and the traffic moves on the left-hand side of the street. Away we went up the narrow little streets full speed.

My heart was in my mouth. The streets simply teem with humanity. Besides the countless pedestrians are millions of rickshaws darting every way; wheelbarrows loaded with people and produce; every conceivable kind of wheeled vehicle; coolies pulling huge antiquated carts by means of ropes--each coolie is licensed and wears his tag on his back; thousands of coolies carrying loads suspended from poles on their shoulders; street­cars, other autos. Jam all that mess into a narrow street and you have pandemonium.

We sailed through the mess, horn tooting and people and vehicles scattering every way. I still can't see why we didn't smack one. I asked Howard what would happen if a car hit a rickshaw. He said that they throw the rickshaw coolie in jail. If the coolie is killed it costs the owner of the car two dollars. You can't imagine so much life.

We went up Nanking road in the international settlement to the Bund, and Howard's office. All the buildings there are exactly like the ones in any American city. Of course some of the architecture is different but essentially they are the same. After meeting the men in the office we went out Bubbling Well road to Howard's apartment. He has a beautiful apartment with every convenience you have at home--three servants less than twenty dollars a month.

We met Mrs. Howard and talked about China until dark. Mrs. Howard left. Four men in aviation out here came in for a stag dinner. Peach of a dinner, beautifully served. Mitchell called me. He and McCleskey are flying for Chinese Airways, each flying about six and a half hours a day. It is a mail and passenger line.

After dinner Howard and his friends set out to show us Shanghai nightlife. First we went to the Majestic--a nightclub. It looked just like any nightclub in the States except it had a large dance floor and the Chinese were in native dress. Some of the men were in European dress. All the women were in native--in fact all the women stay in native dress. I should think they would--their long tubular dresses are the most seductive and graceful things you ever saw. The unbrokeness of the fabric shows the richness of the fabric, to advantage. They all have beautiful slim figures that would make most American girls gnash their teeth with envy. And some of them are gorgeous. Some were the most beautiful girls I have ever seen. I have never had such a surprise, in fact all my preconceived ideas are proving all wet. There was an orchestra playing the latest American jazz. They dance just the way we do on the coast. And the rhythm--wow. The most graceful dancing I have ever seen--a Chinese couple. It was a joy just to watch. I danced with a Chinese girl--lordy, what smooth grace. I enjoyed it immensely.

Next we went to a club where all the girls were all Russian. I had heard that the Russians were nice looking. They are. Finally we went to the Del Monte-the club de luxe. Its appointments were beautiful. The orchestra was a whiz. We had drinks, ham and eggs for ten people, and the bill was only four dollars gold. Exchange is 4.89 to one.

The next day we drove to the chapel district-the scene of the fighting. You cannot realize the extent of the battle. Miles and miles of ruins. Everything simply leveled, nothing left but piles of debris. The international settlement where most of the foreigners live and carry on business is guarded by every nationality of soldier. French, German, British, Italian, Sikhs-great big husky men from India , heavy black beards and white turbans, bandoliers of shells across their chests-what a picture. You must see it. I am delighted with it all-what an experience. I realize that I have been lyric about China, but it is a revelation to me. I am the foreigner and what fun it is.

I am anxious to find out what my duties out here will be. A bunch of Curtiss Hawks with 700 H.P. Cyclone engines are on the way. What a peach of a pursuit that is. I still have my lonely spells. I am anxious to have Jeannette here, in fact I wont be content until she is. Hope things are improving in the States and that you are getting a good price for fruit. I think of you often and wonder what you are doing. I will have letters in a few days, thank goodness.

Remember me to Mala and Granddad with love. I will write you soon. All my love to you all. I am thinking of you.

Love,
Stu